So, naturally, I took to YouTube for some tutorials and quickly landed on two excellent glazing tutorials by none other than Root Simple pal Eric of Garden Fork video two is here. After viewing the videos several times and getting plenty of practice on my new window nine panes on the top and one on the bottom , I managed to achieve acceptable though not gold medal results by the end of the job.
Perhaps we will see some gold medal glaziers when we host the event in Get practicing as the winners will make millions from Dap sponsorships! This game-changing candy cookbook from the owner of Quin, a popular Portland-based candy company, offers more than achievable recipes using real, natural ingredients for everything from flavor-packed fruit lollipops to light-as-air marshmallows. It would be nice to see a picture of the final result. Did you make the nine-pane wooden window yourself?
If so, that would be an interesting topic. Yes, I should have posted the first pane not so good and the last pane almost ok. And no, I had the window milled at a local lumber yard to match the original.
This is perfectly timed… I opened my blogroll as Hubs was walking up the stairs with some glazing compound…. Repeat this for several passes, applying a little pressure each time to edge further into the putty. Using a hammer, gently tap on the flat edge of the knife until you see it cutting into the putty.
The hacking knife is deliberately not razor sharp to prevent damage to the frame which always happens if you use a wood chisel. Keep tapping the hacking knife down towards the frame and the chunks will ping off. You will soon get used to how hard you can hit it. Which ever way your frame is lying, always hit down towards the frame. Never hit down towards the glass or you will smash it.
Once you have removed a chunk of putty you should be able to see how deep it is and where the frame is so that you know exactly how deep you can hit the knife down without accidentally chopping into the frame. Continue chopping away the old putty along the surround, ensuring that you get right down into each corner.
Make sure that you get the hacking knife right down into each corner to remove all the window putty. Carefully work your way around the perimeter of the glass, chopping out any and all putty with the hacking knife as you go until all putty has been removed. To soften any hard putty you can use a heat gun. Heating the putty up will cause it to go soft and make removing it much easier. Run the heat gun over the putty from side to side, being careful not to concentrate any heat in one spot for too long as if glass gets too hot it will crack.
You can use some thick pieces of timber cut to length to shield the glass from the direct heat from the gun. With all the major chunks of putty removed, the next job is to go around the frame and remove any small lumps or bumps that remain. This is an essential step if you are hoping to remove any glass in one piece without damage as even the smallest of lumps is enough to prevent the glass from moving freely.
The best tools to use for fine cleaning any remaining putty from your window frame is still a hacking knife but to really get deep into those corners you may also find a putty knife or window scraper useful as they are a little sharper. With all the putty now gone you should be able to clearly see any nails spriggs or window pins.
These are the final obstacle to overcome in order to finally remove the glass. Nails or window pins can be a little tricky to remove due to the fact they are so close to the glass. The best method of removing nails or window pins is to either pry them up with a small screwdriver if you are able to get any purchase or use a pair of needle nose pliers to grip the head and pull them out.
As they are not hammered in too far, due to the need to actually hold the glass, as long as you can get a good grip on them they should come out fairly easily. Once they have all been removed, do a final check for anything that could restrict the glass from coming out and then give the glass a very gently push with the flat of your hand on one of the edges.
Carry on and remove the pane and put it to one side out of the way. If not then its probably been bonded in using silicone or a similar sealant. In this situation, use a razor blade to run around the edge of the glass on both sides and then see if you can move it.
Once thoroughly cleaned prime it with a decent exterior wood primer or paint system such as the Dulux Weathershield system or Sadolin or similar.
Microporous paint ideal for treating rabbet grooves on windows before refitting single glazed panes of glass. Run a very thin bead of silicone around the rabbet groove as this will help to seal the glass and prevent any draughts or water ingress. However, if you are planning on removing the glass again in the near future you may want to skip this as it will make the glass harder to get back out.
Carefully rest the glass back into the recess or rabbet groove and ensure an even gap all around the perimeter. This can be fairly difficult as knocking anything it with a hammer this close to a thin piece of glass is asking for trouble, but if you have a steady hand it is possible to use a small tacking hammer to knock in the nails or window pins.
As window pins and the very small nails or brads or finishing nails you will be using here are very thin they can easily be pushed into a timber window frame. Just be careful when applying an pressure to any area around the glass. In terms of the putty itself, there are quite a few types available, but generally the best glazing or window putty is a Linseed oil based putty as their easy to work with and last a decent amount of time.
Linsee oil based glazing putty — Available form our online store here. Occasionally, in order to make Linseed-based putties workable you will need to warm it up. To do this, boil a kettle and pour the boiling water into a pan and then place the sealed tub of putty into the water. This will warm the putty inside and make it much more malleable and workable. Glazing putty applied around rabbet joint of window ready to be pushed into the joint and smoothed — Image courtesy of oldhousefix.
To get it nice and smooth, use a putty knife of filling knife. First put some white spirit on the edge of the knife to lubricate it, this will help you to get a good finish. Make sure you only apply gentle pressure into the joint and not on the glass. Work your way around the window working the putty into the joint as you go. Once you have completed one pass of the full window, start again from the beginning, this time smoothing over any lines and rough patches.
Repeat this for as many times as you need until your putty is perfectly smooth. In terms of getting your putty smooth in the corners and getting a nice crisp line, this can be a little tricky. Use your putty knife to form each mitre and then smooth it out. Once all of your lines and mitred corners are smooth, use your putty knife to tidy up the joint where the putty finishes on the glass.
This should also be as perfect a straight line as you can get it. With a fresh ball of putty then worked up to temperature, putty is then applied for the outer seal. Ignore anything you might have heard about wetting the putty knife blade. What you need is a clean, preferably polished, stiff blade. Press the putty down and draw the blade along with a steady motion.
You should end up with a nice neat fillet with the excess in a line on the glass and frame, this should be easy to pull off. If the putty pulls away behind the knife it is probably too cold. Pull it off and re0work some heat in to it. Or cheat and gently warm it with a hot air gun. Work away from the corner is easiest, pressing the end of the blade in to form the mitre the pulling away from that point.
The last mitre joint you have to do going towards the first side you did. Practice will eventually make perfect, in the meantime just aim for acceptable. Timber Beading is a weak point, with an extra two surfaces that need to sealed the opportunities for de-bonding and water ingress are doubled.
Small gaps can be filled with putty and a small extra fillet of putty added from the top of the beading to glass. Rotten beading should be replaced. This will need the putty behind the bead scraping off so the new bead can be fully bedded and pressed in to fresh putty. Make sure the end mitres of the beading are sealed. Next: Priming and painting. Previous: Filling and sanding window repairs.
Please post any questions, comments or suggestions over on the blog. Window repairs intro and index. Investigating the extent of damage. Making good a timber frame or sash. Other Window problems and considerations including sash window double glazing. Filling and sanding window repairs.
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